Nice, France — Bethany Wanders

Sun-kissed and beachy with a country charm, Nice ranks pretty high on my list of favorite places, especially if you’re looking to combine Mediterranean “always summer” vibes with the more laid-back, French Provençal pace. Whether your ideal outing is a picnic stocked with local wine and baguettes snagged at the local market, or high-end shopping and glamorous operas, Nice has it all - and more. Here are some of the “Nice-st” things to do (I couldn’t help myself!).

Explore the stalls of Nice’s Marché aux Fleurs market

With most vendors open from around 5:00 am to around 1:00 pm every day, the Marché aux Fleurs market in Nice’s old town district “Vielle Ville” offers such regional delights as flowers, food, specialty lavender products, antiques, and fish. As you walk through row after row of fragrant and flamboyant flower boxes and delectable homemade fare, it can at times feel like stepping back in time - particularly since this market dates back over a century. However, it’s remained a daily staple for many Nicoise denizens, and after spending an hour or so of sampling and haggling, it may start to feel like the most natural thing in the world.

Bike La Promenade des Anglais & La Promenade des Arts

These two coastal promenades connect over several miles and are perfectly suited for strolling or cycling along the wide bike lanes. Bike rentals are very affordable; we picked ours up from a small shop on the Promenade for just €12 for 4 hours, or you can use the city bikes available for pickup and drop off all over the city. Whether you choose to take in the stunning views by foot or on wheels, be sure to bring your camera to snap some panoramas that will make friends and family feel like they’re right there with you (which I tried to do for you, my friends!).

Fall in love at Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

This magnificent rose-colored mansion once belonged to Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild, a member of the illustrious banking family, and was designed to mimic the look of a ship she once sailed, with the villa as the bridge and its meticulously kept collection of nine individually-themed gardens forming the deck. The whole array sits atop a hill overlooking the sea, and creates a perfectly whimsical (if a little indulgent) realization of the Baroness’ vision - complete with gardeners bedecked in early-20th century sailor uniforms, pom-pom’d beret included. It’s hard not to feel a little lovelier standing among the perfectly manicured foliage and flowers, or to picture other tourists dressed in dapper, Downton Abbey-esque clothing, arm in arm.

If you’re artistically inclined and happening to visit in June, don’t miss the villa’s annual Painter’s Day, when the whole place opens itself up to artists and amateurs hoping to hone their craft or paint their masterpiece in one of the nine gardens. You can also catch the annual festival Opera Azuriales there during the summer, when the whole place becomes - if possible - even more magical.

Play paparazzi at Nice Harbour

The harbor houses plenty of prize yachts (or perhaps “shows off” is a more appropriate phrase!). While we were there, my boyfriend Björn and I picked up a pizza and had a little picnic on the edge while people watching and yacht “shopping.” It’s easy to see the appeal of these luxury boats up close, though none quite measured up to the incredible Quantum Blue - a beauty owned by Russian billionaire Sergey Galitsky and valued at a cool $250 million. We took plenty of pictures of the yacht, though we didn’t get to schmooze with any of the celebrities, billionaires, playboys, or philanthropists whose precious boats fill the marina.

It’s worth noting that for plebeians like us, a pizza picnic was the perfect way to enjoy this area of Nice, as the harbor is dotted with cafes, but they’re a little on the pricey side, so it may be better to window-shop and sniff. Still, the pizza in Nice is excellent, especially given how close it is to the Franco-Italian border. Although, they have some strange pizza combinations (for our American and German tastes anyway) like with potato, chorizo, or fried egg on ground beef. However, when in France, right?

Stop and say “Privet” to the St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral

The largest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in Western Europe, this cathedral is instantly recognizable as Russian, sporting colorful onion domes and the intricate architectural detail inside and out reminiscent of St. Petersburg. It may seem like a fish out of water in Nice, but actually represents a long history between Russians and the French Riviera, started in the mid-1800s by Tsar Alexander II. The building is simply gorgeous, particularly the exterior, though if you go at the right time the inside is filled with the sound of song. If you’re planning a visit, note that photography isn’t allowed inside, but you can purchase postcards, and women should plan to cover their hair once inside.

Get a bird’s eye view of the French Riviera from Castle Hill

If you’re itching to stretch your legs and see some spectacular panoramic views at the same time, hiking Castle Hill (Montee du Chateau in French) is well worth the cardio. It’s worth noting that the climb is a bit steep for those who aren’t used to climbing or hiking, but if you prefer to enjoy your views without being winded, there is a free lift available. Wander around the Roman ruins or stop over at the man-made waterfall and lookout point on the stairway up to the top, then reward yourself once you reach the top with a relaxing stop at the cafe, featuring truly epic views of the harbor to the east and the beach (or Mediterranean sunset) to the west. It can be a bit busy at peak season, but there’s no denying the views are heavenly.

Experience sumptuous sound at Opéra Nice Côte d’Azur

Located in the heart of Nice’s old town, this opera house boasts impressive architectural intricacy and opulent interior design - plus plenty of performances of operas, ballets, and symphonic music. Home to Nice’s philharmonic orchestra, this cultural hub offers packed seasons with everything from family concerts to full operatic productions to jazz ensembles. And while the building may make you feel like you need to shell out to attend, ticket prices are actually quite reasonable, and most events offer student discounts; so if you’re an academic, be sure to bring your ID to save some Euro for the great bar scene later.

Discover a taste of spice trading in the historic Vielle Ville old town

A morning spent wandering through Nice’s historic old town is a perfect, laid-back way to acquaint yourself with its history and friendliness, and you’re sure to find beautiful churches, charming architecture, and lots of boutiques tucked away in the narrow streets. Follow your nose to discover Nice’s long history of spice traders, typically selling their wares in the daily old town markets or in dedicated shops.

Shop til you drop at the Galeries Lafayette

This massive shopping center is tough to miss: the bright red-orange building is dotted with rows of teal-shuttered windows, and is surrounded by a white-columned arcade. Inside you’ll find nearly 140,000 square feet of shopping across five levels, and a wealth of brands - from H&M to designers like Balenciaga, Gucci, and Saint Laurent. It’s open every day (except holidays), but you can expect particularly excellent sales in late January to early February, as well as in July.

Delight your tastebuds with Nicoise specialties

It’s one thing to visit a place, but another thing entirely to really sink your teeth into it. Luckily, Nice offers some truly tasty treats you won’t find anywhere else that are worth trying:

Socca is a regional favorite similar to a crepe or a thin pancake made of oil, water, and chickpea flour. However, don’t go pouring syrup all over socca - one local artisanal product trader informed us strictly that the only acceptable way to eat it is with butter, otherwise it was downright sacrilege!
Nicoise salad is worth trying once, though to be honest I found it a bit basic, and it likely won’t become your favorite unless you absolutely love tuna on your salad.
Ratatouille, made famous by the Pixar film, is actually one of Nice’s regional superstars, and it is divine! It’s actually really easy to make at home, as well, if you’re hoping to infuse your daily life with a little bit of the French Riviera.

Where to Eat

French cuisine

Le p’tit resto: Located at Rue Place Vieille and Rue Centrale, this restaurant has relatively reasonable prices (for Nice, at any rate) and buy their vegetables fresh every morning from the Marché aux Fleurs market. Try the duck breast with mashed potatoes and pumpkin chestnut soup!
Pop-o-Thym: Cozy and casual, this place sits right in the heart of Nice’s old town. Don’t let the franchise-y exterior fool you - it’s unusually welcoming, with just the right amount of French sass. They basically do all things crepe, and my Breton-style salmon and goat cheese gallette (a darker crepe made from buckwheat) was delicious, and Björn loved his American-style breakfast spread as well. A word to the wise though: DON’T ask for WiFi unless you’re looking from a lecture from the (otherwise jovial) owner about the importance of socializing. ;-)
Chez Papa on Rue Bonaparte: A nice little bistro on Rue Bonaparte serving French dishes in a casual, restaurant/bar atmosphere.

Fish & Seafood

Le Cafe de Turin Place: Slightly on the expensive side, this restaurant located in Garibaldi Place nevertheless serves up some excellent fish and seafood dishes. The mussels and oysters are particularly good.

Italian

Attimi Place: With the close proximity to the Italian border, the Italian food in Nice is bound to be authentic and delicious, and this casual little spot near the Fontaine du Soleil and Place Massena has great pizza, pasta, and a good selection of wines.
La Voglia: A great Italian restaurant spilling out onto the sidewalk of Rue Saint-François de Paule, with particularly large portion sizes!
La Favola: Even though it’s in the Marché aux Fleurs, which is one of the most touristy areas in Nice, this is one of the best Italian eateries in the city in my opinion, and well worth a visit!

Ice Cream/Gelato

Fenocchio on Place Rosetti: The local favorite by far! But be advised - customer service standards in France are a far cry from what you can expect in the US, so don’t be miffed if the staff seem hurried or surly.